Europe is a land of beautiful cathedrals and basilicas. Vienna itself has its share, with the Augustinerkirche, the Votivekirche, the Stephensdom, and quite a few others. Many of these buildings have been around for centuries -- some have traditions that are more than a thousand years old, though the existing structures are usually more recent.
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For Protestants from the United States, these sites can be difficult to assess. Our students are frequently dismayed by the ritualism and the extravagance that they find, and they often conclude that these buildings are nothing but gaudy monuments to a long-extinguished spirituality. Keith still remembers an old story about an American preacher who (reportedly) humiliated a cathedral docent by sarcastically asking, "when is the last time anybody got saved in this place?"
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These insinuations, however, are horribly unfair. It is true that these cathedrals were sometimes built at the expense of the poor . . . and it is true that the European churches are no longer characterized by vibrant spirituality. It is also true that these churches have dark histories of military complicity and administrative corruption. Some of them even have gift shops, with money-changers . . . WWJD?
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And yet . . . it would be good to spend some time with the people who work behind the altars. They are deeply committed to their work, they are spiritually disciplined, and they are exceptionally well-versed in Scripture and theology. There is nothing particularly cold, lifeless, or ritualistic about their devotion!
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Moreover, we need to remember that these buildings were never constructed with evangelistic intent. On the contrary, they were built for communities that considered themselves to be Christian already, and they were designed to call attention to the majesty of God. The architects wanted people to experience God's presence, and they accordingly covered the walls with biblical illustrations and with the faces of beloved spiritual role models. Protestants miss the point completely, when they speak of these "idolatrous images."
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We should also pay attention to an important historical reality: very few American church buildings are more than 100 years old, and they are rarely well-preserved. By contrast, despite the struggles of reecent generations, European cathedrals have always been cultural focal-points, and they have been maintained with a great deal of care. If they are magnets for tourists, that is scarcely a mark against them!
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The Duomo, on a gray and rainy day.m
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Here are a few of our favorite cathedrals and basilicas, after 10 weeks in Europe:
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The Kölner Dom (in Cologne, Germany): This one was totally unexpected, and unbelievably huge! Unfortunately, we did not get to spend much time inside, because they were trying to have a service (imagine that).
Karlskirche (in Vienna): Aside from the fact that we had to buy tickets for this one (and aside from the surly ticket lady), this was worth the visit. The interior is gorgeous, and we were able to take an elevator to the top of the painted dome, where we could see it up close.
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (in Florence): This cathedral, also called the Duomo, is particularly striking from the outside. The dome is its most famous characteristic, however, and was the architectual masterpiece of Filippo Brunelleschi.
St. Peter's Basilica (Rome): We're all sorry about John Tetzel's indulgence-selling fundraiser, but it did not finance a significant percentage of this incredible building. There is no way to briefly describe the size and the beauty of the place.
Cathedral de Notre Dame (Paris): We haven't been here, yet, but we plan to visit next week. Let's just add it to the list right now!
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1 comments:
Not one to comment on blogs, but thought I'd let you at least know that we have been keeping up with your trip. Outstanding pictures! Your kids are lucky to have this experience - sorry you couldn't take mine with you. Oh well, maybe next time.
The Daves.
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